[天氣資訊] [交通資訊] 《水調歌頭—遊覽》作者:黃庭堅

瑤草一何碧
春入武陵溪
溪上桃花無數
枝上有黃鸝
我欲穿花尋路
直入白雲深處
浩氣展虹霓
只恐花深裏
紅露濕人衣
坐玉石 倚玉枕
拂金徽
謫仙何處
無人伴我白螺杯
我為靈芝仙草
不為朱唇丹臉
長嘯亦何為
醉舞下山去
明月逐人歸
[行山路線] [香港地方]
[手機覆蓋地圖] [谷歌地圖] 最佳瀏覽像素:1024 x 768 [中原地圖] [地理資訊地圖]

Chinese-style church on Tao Fong Shan (30.12.2025)

Buddhists used to choose a quiet and elegant place to practice Buddhism, and therefore most Buddhist temples and Zen forests (襌林) locate in mountains. On the other hand, Christianity is more "worldly (入世)". To facilitate the believers to come and gather, most churches are built in urban areas. This gives an impression that Christianity integrates less with the natural world.

However, there are exceptions. Tao Fong Shan Christian Centre in rear hill of Shatin is well-known for its tranquil ambience. It is also called "Christian Jungle (基督教叢林)", where "Jungle" refers to the place of monasticism. Like the Buddhist temples on famous mountains, the Christian Jungle also has beautiful scenery.

Christian Jungle, located in rear hill of Shatin

The entire architectural design of the Christian Jungle is in typical Chinese style. Strangely, it was founded not by a Chinese or Asian, but by a Norwegian missionary, called Dr. K. L. Reichelt (艾香德博士, 1877-1952). He founded Ching Fong Shan (景風山) in Nanjing in 1922 and Tao Fong Shan (道風山) in Hong Kong in 1930. Although it is called "Tao (道)", his target is "Buddha (佛)", to convert Buddhists to Christianity. Therefore, the emblem of the Tao Fong Shan is a lotus holding a cross.

Tomb of Dr. K. L. Reichelt, located in the Garden of Angels
Garden of Angels, located in the centre of Tao Fong Shan Christian Cemetery

The Christian Jungle shows three elements of architecture style, say, Buddha, Christ, and China. Nevertheless, they are highly harmonious. Below are some examples:

1. Buddha element - In addition to lotus flower, there is also bronze bell. Hanging in front of the Christ Temple (聖殿) is the big bronze bell symbolizing the Christian Jungle. Beneath the Christ Temple is a quiet room made of granite, called the "Lotus Crypt (蓮花洞)", wherein believers may confess their sins.

Bronze bell, casted in 1940 in Shanghai
Quiet room made of granite
Lotus Crypt, wherein believers may confess their sins

2. Christ element - Entering the front hill area, there is a particularly narrow door. The doorway is inscribed with the title "Gate of Life (生命門)" and the couplet "Many that enter through the wide gate will not achieve true happiness (寬路行人多 並無眞樂)" and "Small is the gate and narrow the road that leads to life, and only a few find it (窄門進者少 內有永生)". The words are from the Bible, reminding passers-by to think about their life of path. Near the cliff, a large wooden cross, called the "Big Cross (大十字架)", is erected, staring down at the bottom of the hill, i.e., the Shatin town crowed with people and tall buildings. The Big Cross was engraved with "It is finished (成了)", which reminds followers to carry on the Kingdom’s mission (天國使命).

Gate of Life
Big Cross

3. China element – The most eye-catching is the double eaves, octagonal and tented roof (重簷八角攢尖頂) design adopted by the church, explaining why it is called "Temple" but not "Chapel". Another unique thing is their Art Ministry, which paints and fires porcelain by itself. It is one of the very few places in Hong Kong that produces Canton porcelains to this day. Some hand-painted porcelains have even got worldwide recognition.

Christ Temple
Designed by Johannes Prip-Møller, a Danish architect
Art Shop, producing Christian art and spiritual products that integrates with Chinese folk art

To visit the Christian Jungle, you may walk from Shatin MTR Station, taking some 30 minutes. Or you may take taxi at Tai Wai MTR Station. View the quaint buildings, stroll along the shady paths, and admire the unique coloured porcelain. A half-day tour is enjoyable even for non-Christians.

(參考:https://www.tfscc.org/map/)

《二百年前北角海岸行》 (10.3.2024)

參照老師曾經的帶領,從大坑蓮花宮走到銅鑼灣天后廟,之後再行至皇都戲院一帶,這正正是踱步於二百年前的北角海岸。查North Point名字初指海岬岬角,首見1845年地圖,與銅鑼灣(未填平的海灣)另一邊岬角East Point相望。這條海岸線自南向北後轉東北,是當年銅鑼灣(海灣)的東岸,盡處有山名East Hill(見1844年地圖),East Hill以東有小海灣,跨灣後海岸線轉為西東走向,此一帶地名七姊妺(名字初見1888年地圖)。英佔初期香港政府修建一條沿海岸線連接銅鑼灣及筲箕灣的泥路,開始有路駁通北角與七姊妺。至於北角不斷東擴令七姊妺退至今之健康村一帶,是近六七十年的發展,1985年北角地鐵站正式啓用後,七姊妺之名更不彰顯。
(參考:https://www.hkmaps.hk/viewer.html)

未有任何填海工程前的北角海岸線原貌,摘自1841年英人在軍艦上繪製的香港全圖

回說二百年前的北角或銅鑼灣(海灣)東岸,當時已有銅鑼灣天后廟,古稱紅香爐天后宮,又稱燈籠洲天后古廟,廟內有1747年鑄的銅鐘,估計該廟在此年或之前已建成。値得注意的是此廟在1868年的大型重修,從廟內尙存的碑文所見,捐款者眾,不乏大行,更有國內及海外商號,原因吸引學者探究。查當年銅鑼灣一帶雖僻處維多利亞城東陲,East Point卻是渣甸洋行的大本營,當是生財之地。
(參考:黎志添《香港廟宇碑刻志——歷史與圖錄》、丁新豹《紅香爐和紅香爐天后廟》)

銅鑼灣天后廟
廟前的紅香爐,左右兩香爐書「燈籠洲天后古廟」
廟中銅鐘,上刻乾隆十二年,即1747年
牆身上有兩幅比人還高的黑碑,字跡模糊,左碑尤甚,但可判斷滿是1868年重修時捐款者芳名
右碑較清晰部分
第一行列出捐銀最多的商號,皆南北行大莊

大坑蓮花宮建於1846年,1863年重修成今貌,建築獨特,前殿呈半八角形,別樹一幟。相傳村民因觀音曾在該處顯靈而建廟,太平天國時期大量客家人逃難到大坑,蓮花宮成為村民的議事、仲裁及社交場所。後來約於1880年,大坑曾發生瘟疫,村民紮一巨龍,上插香枝,在中秋前後舞火龍繞村遊行,沿途燃放爆竹,之後,瘟疫果然停止。自此村民每年都進行三天的舞火龍活動,以保大坑合境平安。蓮花宮的天花刻有以龍為主題的壁畫,相信與舞火龍習俗有關。
(參考:https://www.ctc.org.hk/temple/%e5%a4%a7%e5%9d%91%e8%93%ae%e8%8a%b1%e5%ae%ae/)

大坑蓮花宮
前殿呈半八角形,配以重檐攢尖式屋頂
攢尖頂內部,可見半八角形設計,圍著寶頂刻有一龍

皇都戲院雖是歷史建築,但非此行目標,既探訪了天后站的「天后」,也想找到炮台山站的「炮台」。炮台已拆,在舊地圖上找,果然在1864年地圖上見Battery在East Hill上,對出海角是North Point,Battery字眼其後只再出現在1903年地圖。文獻上記載則有North Point Battery,即北角炮台,建成日期有幾種說法,都在1880年前後,與1864年地圖有點時間差,待考。拆卸日期則一致在1920年。今古地圖對照,炮台位置就在皇都戲院附近。然則炮台山在哪?百多年前的地圖沒這名字,地鐡站旁有小山崗,相信是移山工程剩下的East Hill山體。今出站後沿炮台山道上行不久轉左,可找到小山崗上的炮台山道遊樂場。百多年前,遊樂場位置再出便是北角海岬,北角炮台應在遊樂場位置通往海岬的山體(已被削平)上。現附近有街道名堡壘街,亦可佐證北角炮台位置。至於炮台山Fortress Hill一名,是地鐵站啓用後才廣泛使用的。
(參考:https://www.facebook.com/100066969742406/posts/292006281178941/)

炮台山道遊樂場
遊樂場平面圖,其西緣與原來的海岸地形吻合,北面藍色是厠所
厠所後面是人工削坡,接著是住宅大厦
從保壘街可見人工削坡與住宅大厦間的窄巷
近看削坡,右邊住宅向右隔一座大厦及英皇道,便是皇都戲院
重塑中的皇都戲院,鄰近可能是北角炮台的舊址

《彩虹若夢壁畫牆》 (25.11.2023)

「若有閒情每日清晨臨此地,夢無俗念悠然漫步再遊園」,此地何地?「屯門徑」是也,所遊何園?「若夢園」是也,對聯書於「屯門徑」上的「若夢園」正門。「屯門徑」近年經政府多次修繕,路況和設施大為改進,幾乎全徑鋪石,接車路引往「藍地水塘」,令水塘假日遊人不絶,山徑的「彩虹欄杆」,更成打咭熱點。另一邊廂,大約在三十年前,由一班熱心行山人士合力建成,曾負盛名的「若夢園」,卻漸見荒蕪,昔年的建園和守園者,今天或已不在人世,或已無力登山,園務乏人打理,園內設施日漸破落。是日臨「屯門徑」,遊「若夢園」,訪「藍地水塘」,末程還一探「藍地」的壁畫牆。

起步點
彩虹欄杆
青山與屯門市區
若夢園
八方亭
遠方是九逕山
下望藍地水塘
橋下春波綠,驚鴻照影來
水壩
藍地壁畫

《蛤蘭與紫兜》 (21.11.2023)

清代袁枚有五言詩名《苔》:「白日不到處,青春恰自來。苔花如米小,也學牡丹開。」苔非開花植物,苔花是甚麼?有論者指應理解為苔蘚的孢蒴,畢竟孢蒴不等於花,還是老老實實去尋花。在香港的崇山幽谷中,白日不到處,確有迷你開花植物名蛤蘭,混在苔蘚旁,其小如米,其青如苔,在紫紋兜蘭盛開的日子中,只要你肯努力上山,機緣巧合,不難遇上。微距鏡下,蛤蘭開花,驚艷度不亞於紫兜。戲改袁枚詩詠蛤蘭:「白日不到處,青春恰自來。蛤蘭如米小,也學紫兜開。」

蛤蘭之一,小毛蘭
崖上的一群
近拍小毛蘭一
近拍小毛蘭二
近拍小毛蘭三
近拍小毛蘭四
蛤蘭之二,對莖毛蘭
石上的一群
近拍對莖毛蘭一
近拍對莖毛蘭二
近拍對莖毛蘭三
近拍對莖毛蘭四
紫紋兜蘭
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